Rievaulx Abbey, Helmsley, North Yorkshire
The majestic, almost regal, appearance of Rievaulx Abbey looming from the depths
of a narrow river valley symbolises the power and importance of monasticism
in medieval England. This enormous Cistercian house, numbering some
150 monks and 500 lay brethren at one time, was the nucleus from which
several other northern abbeys were colonised.
Although the early 13th century church - reputed to have been
one of the finest monastic churches in the North - remains substantially
intact, less than half of the outbuildings, recorded at the time of the suppression
in 1538, are still in existence.
Rarely did the Cistercians break with convention when planning the layout of a monastery,
but at Rievaulx Abbey the church had to be built more on a north-south axis
(as opposed to the traditional east-west) because of severely sloping
ground levels. The model for the first church built c1135 to 1145
was probably based on the Mother House at Clairvaulx in France, and certainly reflected
the functional austerity of that time. However, following partial demolition
of the 'eastern end', the community undertook a rebuilding
programme in a far more elaborate style with clustered columns, heavily
moulded arches and elegant lancet windows.
Across the 15 acre site, there are many outbuildings standing to a good height and virtually
the whole range can be identified at foundation level. Another of
the impressive architectural treasures still very much in evidence, apart
from the abbey church, is the monks' refectory. This beautiful dining
hall, some 124ft (37.5m) long and an amazing 50ft (15.2m) high, was supported by an
undercroft built into the terraced ground. A good deal of the arcading,
and several of the gracefully, arched lancet windows of the refectory
survive to give a clear indication of the former glory of this communal hall.
Fragmented sections of the ancient precinct wall can still be seen, although depending
on the time of year, they are often obscured by spreading climbers and
over zealous weeds. On one occasion when we visited Rievaulx Abbey in the spring,
we are able to capture this colourful image of delicate, deep pink blossom
bursting over the crumbling stones.
As a young lad, I can recall feeling completely mesmerised by a photograph of this enormous
medieval structure and knew, even then, that one day I would find this
mystical place and explore its fascinating history for myself. Having
made several visits in recent years, I have never been disappointed with
the sheer enormity, the magnificent detail, and the sense of timelessness
at an abbey that has stood redundant for over 450 years.
Rievaulx Abbey is now in the hands of English Heritage, but running along the eastern edge of the
site is Rievaulx Terrace, owned by the National Trust. This elevated,
grassy ridge provides an excellent vantage point for viewing and understanding
the monastic complex. |